SATURDAY, 10 MAY 2009

Aqaba

My original thought was that I’d get to Aqaba by bus, then immediately take the ferry to Nuweiba, Egypt.  As things are when traveling, it didn’t go as planned.  Instead, I hopped in a car with my newfound friends, Lisa and Nick, the Aussies, and Monica and Tommaso.  We had been provided with advice to stay with a friend of a friend at a newly built hotel at the Bedouin Moon Village, just south of Aqaba and about 2 km north of the Saudi Arabia border.  We decided to go check it out.

It turned out to be an ‘in process’ resort, with things still being built.  It was a bit isolated, however, with the car, it was no issue.

We spent the day relaxing – lounging and walking at the beach, then spending time finding food.  It was a grand way to spend a relaxing day with no cares in the world.
 

 

FRIDAY, 8 MAY 2009

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum was truly an unexpected truly enjoyable trip in Jordan.  Today, I awoke early and met Monica and Tommaso outside my hotel.  The bus picked us up at 6:30 AM.

It took only about 1 hours to reach the Wadi Rum Visitor Center.  We discovered that out of the 10 or so tourist on the bus, only us three would be exiting the bus without a pre-paid tour.  The others had booked a trip at another location already.  Our suspicions were that they were being brought to Diseh, a place just outside the Wadi Rum protected area where many non-Bedouins set up money-making ‘camps’ to entice the tourists.  Many of these tourists go to Wadi Rum without even entering the actual area.

But not us three – we were armed with our Lonely Planet book that had warned against falling for such tricks!  We entered the Visitor Center, prepared to book a 3 hour camel ride to the camp.  We soon found that the costs were exorbitant  -- far higher than what was quoted in our book.  Damn Lonely Planet – the book was 3 years old and we had all been led astray by it more than once.  We decided to wait for more tourists to arrive, in hopes of splitting a trip with others to drop each of our shares.  No luck – we waited until 10:30 and found that everyone arriving was either on a group tour or had pre-booked the trip.  We were the only that were playing by ear.

Eventually, after being approached by many suspicious looking characters offering far too low prices, the Visitor Center people decided to call in a favor and offered us an affordable price for a 1 hour camel ride, a 4 hour jeep tour, then overnight in the Bedouin camp.  We accepted.

As we entered the Wadi Rum protected area, I was surprised to see how beautiful a desert could be.  The sands were red, and high rocks rose in the distance.  It was unlike anything I’d ever imagined.

We were invited to Eik, our guide’s, house.  We entered a traditional Bedouin tent and sat down to enjoy the ever-sugary and delicious Bedouin tea.  It was there that we met Nick and Lisa, an Australian couple that would be joining us later on that evening at the camp.  They planned to spend the day hiking around the campgrounds.

After buying sandwiches from a nearby shop, we headed to ride our camels.  I absolutely love the way the camel faces look – truly adorable creatures.  Our three were sitting on the ground.  I hoisted myself onto the seat and prepared myself for the rise.  It was a bit daunting – they stand up with their back legs first, then their front.  This means that the whole seat tilts forward at an intense angle, causing me to fear that I might fall off.  It seemed very unstable as the camels started forward; on the camel, we were almost 10 feet off the ground.  I held on for dear life.

It was a short 30 minute ride to Lawrence’s Spring, named after Lawrence of Arabia.  I had previously heard a Bedouin say that “Camel is good for woman, bad for man.”  I overheard Monica asking Tommaso in italian a few times ‘how it was down there.’  He seemed okay for the short ride.

And so we arrived at the site and hopped off the camels.  It was there that we met with our young 18 year old guide with his Landcruiser.  He was a serious guide with a lot of knowledge of the area.

As we drove around, I was continually snapping pictures.  We stopped by a Bedouin tent for tea at one place and were invited to try on some traditional clothing.  Monica donned the proper Bedouin female dress, with a fully covered face aside from her eyes.

One of the funniest moments was when Tommaso took on a challenge to race down a huge sand dune against our guide, Ali.  I was a bit suspicious when I heard Ali propose the challenge.  The race would start at the very top of the dune and the one who touched the jeep first would win.  The loser would have to run all the way back to the top.

Monica and I first climbed to the top with them, realizing how tiring it was to reach the top.  We then took our places in the middle of the dune – I would film and she would take photos.  As the race started, it was soon clear that there was an undisputed winner.  Ali reached the bottom at quick speeds, obviously having done the race before and likely beating plenty of unsuspecting tourists.  Tommaso stuck with the bet and ran all the way to the top again, almost dying along the way.  I filmed the entire thing. ☺

The win wasn’t too surpising – Ali is almost 10 years younger than Tommaso and had grown in playing in Wadi Rum.  He had the obvious advantage.

We spent the rest of the day driving around the area, again, amazed by the sights.  Later on, we reached the camp where we would be resting for the evening.  We were able to enjoy a delicious dinner and spend the night sleeping out on the dunes.

 

THURSDAY, 7 MAY 2009

Oh Petra, oh Petra.  How you have taken my breath away.

One of my ultimate goals on this around the world trip was to stand in front of the Treasury at Petra, appreciating the building carved into the rose-colored rocks of the mountain back in 1st century BC.  I had been inspired when a former coworker mentioned it, then dropped off a travel magazine with Petra as its feature.  Gazing at the pictures of the rose city, as it is called, I knew that I would have to make the trip to Jordan, a country right in the Middle East next to Israel, Syria, and Iraq.  It was not necessary the most likely place I thought I’d ever end up, but here I am.

I am currently staying in Wadi Musa, the village right outside Petra.  Yesterday morning, I awoke early in Amman and somehow made my way to the bus station.  I was a bit nervous initially as I realized that the bus was filled entirely with male locals, until two tourist couples joined.  During the course fo the 4 hour bus ride, I made friends with an Italian couple, Monica and Tommaso.  The two are taking a 2 week vacation through Jordan and their plans were matching to mine exactly: two days at Petra, one day at Wadi Rum with an overnight stay in the desert, then heading off to Aqaba.  We immediately decided to made the trip to Wadi Rum together, helping to save money on transport and allowing us better negotiation powers.  I was happy to find fellow travelers to share the desert stay with; there’s something very unnerving about a solo woman sharing a desert stay with Bedouin male strangers.

Upon arrival in Petra, I said good bye to my new friends and dropped my stuff in the hotel.  I was so excited to get to Petra – it was an event that I’d waited so long for and I was giddy in anticipation.  The walk to Petra from the hotel is about 20 minutes downhill; I managed to snag a ride with someone driving down.  I purchased a 2 day ticket and a “Petra by Night” ticket for that very night – an event where candles are lit to line the Siq (I’ll describe it shortly) and leading to the Treasury.  I was set for the next couple days.

As I went through the entrance, I soon realized that Petra is not simply one building but it is a whole desert area filled with many structures that had been carved into the rocks.  The monuments and buildings were carved into the stone by the Nabataeans, ancient Arab tribes that lived in the area more than 2000 years ago.  Rather than construct buildings, they decided instead to carve them into the high stones that fill the region.

It is a 25-30 minute walk down a sandy path, during which time you gaze into the far desert.  I was constantly bombarded by Bedouins trying to sell me a ride on a horse, a donkey, a mule, or in a carriage pulled by horse.  Although they were persistent, I couldn’t help but laugh it off.  After all, I was at Petra, a place of my dreams.  During the course of my two day stay, I actually got a couple free rides and several complimentary teas from the Bedouin, as well as a lot of advice on travels through Jordan.  I found the people to be extremely welcoming.

After the walk, I approached the Siq.  It was once a large block of rock that was torn apart by tectronics.  As I gazed up at the rocks from my path between, I could see the lines where the rocks once met.  It was a long walk through the Siq, much appreciated given the shade that it provided.  I had read about walking it, a path that helps build the anticipation of what is to come next.

And so it appeared – the Treasury.  A huge monument carved into a rose-coloured rock, complete with five pillars of the Corinthian style, glimpses of once Roman statues in the wall, and a huge entrance.  I was filled with emotions – it was more than I’d hope for.  As I stared up at the most beautiful building I’ve ever seen, I felt a sense of complete accomplishment.  I was finally here to see the beauty.

I must have stood there for hours snapping pictures.  I walked up to the building, peeking inside past the barrier.  The officer standing guard actually told me to run inside and snapped a couple of pictures of me.

After, I continued walking through the desert to see the many other structures and carvings in the wall.  It was a playground of a museum, with so many tombs and buildings to see.

Eventually, I made my way up a 40 minute intense hike to reach the Monastery.  Similar to the Treasury, it is a massive building carved into the rock.  Inside sat three children, one covering his eyes, another covering her ears, and the last covering her mouth.  See no evil, Hear no evil, Speak no evil.  It was a fun thing to see.

During my walk down, I ended up walking with the three kids – they were an American family that had lived in Jordan for the past 7 and ½ years. It was fascinating to learn that the Petra had been their playground during the past several years, apparent in the way they ran around, familiar with climbing the structures. 

So what brings an American family to move to the Middle East?  The father is Christian and had heard his calling to move to the Middle East to spread the love of Jesus Christ through his physical therapy.  He and his wife work at a NGO (non-governmental organization) to provide disabled people in Jordan with wheelchairs and physical therapy, so that they have the opportunity to move around like a normal person.  Speaking with the husband and wife, it was apparent that they were extremely good people; they spoke with many of the locals along the way in Arabic and even provided contact numbers for some who knew of people in need.  The kids themselves were the most gregarious youth I’d ever met, ages 15, 12 and 8.  They were preparing for a move back to the US after being home-schooled all these years.  Their parents wanted them to experience socialization in normal schools.  The oldest girl was looking forward to learning to drive and going to prom.

After leaving the family, I made my way back to Wadi Musa for a quick bit to eat, before having to return again for Petra By Night.  I had a delicious plate of assorted salads and dips – hummus, baba ganoush, chopped tomatoes and cucumbers, and a sliced up shawerma.  It was absolutely delicious.

Petra By Night was delightful – the same pathway down the trail, through the Siq, then to the Treasury.  The only difference was that it was a calm night and candles lit the walkway.  At the Treasury, we were invited to have tea and enjoyed Bedouin music.  It was a nice way to an already beautiful place.

 

 

TUESDAY, 5 MAY 2009

Healing Powers of the Dead Sea

The Dead Sea is said to have healing powers.  With over 35 minerals and water six times saltier than the ocean, people have come here for centuries to heal all kinds of ailments.  It’s the lowest spot one earth at 408 m below sea level.  The sign at the beach boasted its power to heal arthritis and rheutism.

I can’t vouch for the healing powers of such ailments, but I can assure the most cynical that my day at the Dead Sea was enough to cure me of two hard months traveling on the road.  After weeks with third world budget rooms, squatter toilets, and cold showers, a relaxing treatment was what I needed.  I was entirely refreshed.

I awoke this morning and had no idea how I would get to the Dead Sea.  It is notoriously difficult to get to with public transport: I figured that I’d try the buses and get dropped off on the side of the highway, walking the last stretch.

Thankfully, I chatted with the owner, Mohammed, and he gasped that a car had just departed with two Aussies who were heading there.  He called the driver and had him turn around to pick me up.  It was a decent amount of Jordanian Dinars, but it was worth it.  I had secured my ride there.

The driver, Ahmed, was hilarious, declaring that American girls were the stars in the sky in Arabic.  (I got this on film – to be posted soon).  The Aussie couple, Simon and Evelyn, are on a one year trip around the world.  They had made it through Russia, China, and Japan, and are heading to through Europe, the US, Central America, and South America after.  Ambitious plans that I’m sure they will enjoy and remember for a lifetime.

The drive was quick, taking us through the dry dessert land.  We grabbed Bedouin coffee on the go, which has some delicious spice in it.  Along the way, we also stopped by a shop to get ingredients to make a wrap – Middle Eastern bread, hummus, falafels, and vegetables.  It was going to be an awesome day.

After about 30-40 minutes on the highway, we soon turned off towards the Dead Sea.  We had to stop by a checkpoint.  After inspecting my passport, a Jordanian soldier with a huge AK-47 gun happily welcomed me to Jordan.  I had the driver drop me off at the Marriott Hotel, where I was looking for an indulgent day at the resort pools and using the spa.  I was reminded of the location as we entered the hotel parking lot; the security used a pole with mirror attached to check for any bombs underneath the car.  The others headed off to the Wadi Mujib and the public beach.

I spent a full five hours of heaven at the Marriott.  I first went down to the beach, where I jumped into the Dead Sea.  As I lay back, my entire body floated upwards, caused by the extreme salinity of the sea.  It was the weird buoyant feeling that I’d read about but didn’t fully comprehend until that moment.  I got a picture of me ‘reading’ my Jordan book while floating on top of the water – a goal I’d had for my Jordan trip.

I couldn’t stay in the sea for long.  I got some water in my eye and it stung like hell.  I also soon realized that there were cuts on my body.  It hurt like hell.

I spent the rest of the day lounging by the pool, getting a salt scrub and mud treatment, and using all the spa facilities – Jacuzzis, steam room, sauna, indoor pool, and pool with salt water from the Dead Sea.  It was a fantastic day.  I also managed to take 3 showers, fully enjoying the hot water.

I was picked up at 5 PM as Evelyn, Simon and Ahmed returned to Jordan.  I was glad to hear that they had a great time.  Simon also mentioned that he saw bombs explode on the other side of the Dead Sea, presumably where Israel was!  I was shocked.  I had heard something that sounded like bombs during my spa treatment, but didn’t think into it.  I suppose that given the area I’m currently in, the Middle East, it’s entirely plausible.  We speculated that it could have been tests or a minefield.  Who knows.

I had a marvelous day.  Tomorrow I head to Wadi Mousa to see the Petra, my ultimate goal for the trip.