SATURDAY, 30 MAY 2009

It’s finally time for me to go home!  As I sit in the Lima Airport, I feel completely refreshed – mainly due to the pedicure, manicure, facial, and massage I just had in the past 2 and ½ hours.  It’s a rewarding experience after having completed the Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu.

I have to admit, I’m ready to head back home.  It’s been a long time on the road and the last week has definitely kicked my ass.  The Inca Trail was not something that I thoroughly thought through.  After having done it, I have to say that it’s definitely challenging but more than worthwhile experience.

I had signed up and paid for my Inca Trail hike well back in February.  The Peruvian government restricts the number of people starting the trail per day to 500, including all guides and porters.  This means that the dry season spots fill up well in advance.  I had chosen to go with Andrean Trek Inc. by referral from a friend of a friend who’d done it.  Now having completed the trek, I’m more than satisfied with this choice.  The company goes out of their way to take care of the ‘details,’ as I call them.  Everyday after the hike, we arrived at our camp with the tents set up.  A bowl of warm water was set out for us to refresh ourselves.  All meals were excellent, with a tent set up with table, tablecloth, and seats.  It was surely the best way to be pampered during a camping trip.  We were even awaken each day to tea in bed (or rather, our sleeping bags).

More importantly, the company we were with treated their workers well.  The weight of baggage that the porters carried was strictly measured to meet the 20 kg limit set by law.  Our porters were given boots to wear and back supports.  This was an important thing, as we saw many porters from other companies running past us in sandles and packs that were surely more than 20 kgs.

So what was the Inca Trail hike like?  Read about my experience below.  These are excerpts out of my daily journal, in chronological order.

SUNDAY, 24 MAY 2009

First Day on the Inca Trail…

We made it to camp!  We have a good group with a good pace – 11 people.  I’m paired to share a tent with Fiona, a Londoner with hyperactive energy and a chirpy mood.  I like her.  The rest of the group is a mix of ages ranging from 23 all the way up to 61 years old.

The trek was fairly easy today, though very dusty.  There were a lot of flat stretches in the morning and few inclines.  I fear for tomorrow – five hours of incline.  I just might die.  I used my Huggie diaper wipes to ‘shower’ in the tent and the wipes were disgustingly covered by dirt by the time I was done.

The sites are amazing.  Beautiful mountains, Inca Trails.  This company truly is awesome.  So much attention is paid to detail.  They truly pamper us.

The mountains stretch up to the sky as far as one can see, covered in green.  In the distance, we can see a mountain range covered in snow.  The sky is a beautiful blue with white puffy clouds. 

MONDAY, 25 MAY 2009

Success on the Second Day!

Today was supposedly the most difficult day and wow, was it ever.  We spent about four to five hours just going uphill.  It included lots of breaks – a lunch break and stops on the way to catch our breathes.  The toughest was when there were steps – many were very high and thus, a bit difficult for my short legs.  The walking stick that I purchased in Cusco prior to departure has been a blessing.  I depend heavily on it. 

The path during morning was gorgeous.  Green trees, moss everywhere, and a stream flowing next to the path.  Absolutely gorgeous.

At lunch, our path opened to show the high mountain ranges around us.  It was good for me to see the summit and know what I was working toward.  Our group started to split up at this point, with a faster group going ahead and others taking a slower pace.  I was forced to stick with the faster group since right behind our guide was the amazing Ann, the 61 year old mother that was kicking all of our 20 and 30  year olds’ asses.  She is truly amazing.  I stayed behind her and her daughter, Alix, who I can honestly say is probably in the best shape I’ve ever seen anyone and probably barely broke a sweat during the hike.  I was thinking during the entire painful experience that she was probably enjoying it more than me.  With us was also Fiona, my very fit tentmate, and Eva, a Dutch lawyer who lives in New York City.  We were a strong feminine group and we carried on together.

After summit, Fiona and I took off down the mountain.  We didn’t see anyone near us at all as we practically sprinted down the steep steps.  It was great spending time with a female my age.  Naturally, we spent our time gossiping as any girls would do.  We got to camp so quickly that we were able to take freezing showers before most had arrived.  Again, the walking stick was a savior for the downhill part.  It helped protect my steps so I didn’t hurt my weak left ankle.

It’s now about 3:30 PM and we’ll likely have tea time.  Life at camp is a breeze.  We’re so spoiled by the porters.  Our tents are set up before we arrive.  Our duffel bags are already in our tents, so we only have to blow up our air mattresses (yes, we were provided these!) and roll out our sleeping bags.  Fiona and I are becoming pros at settling up ‘home’ each day.  She’s found her forte in rolling up a sweet sleeping bag and mattress. 

TUESDAY, 26 MAY 2009

Yay for a Great Third Day!

We just arrived to summit about 15 minutes ago.  The stretch after lunch today was by far the most beautiful on the Inca Trail.  I enjoyed it – the road through the forest, then curving around the mountainside.  It wasn’t too strenuous either, so I was able to actually enjoy the walk.

Morning was a steep tough uphill with high steps.  Thankfully, it didn’t last too long.

I was quite tired today.  Last night was freezing and I barely slep.  One thing truly amazing about this trip has been the view at night.  I swear I’ve never seen so many stars in the night sky.  It’s absolutely gorgeous.  We saw the Big Dipper and identified the Milky Way.  It has truly been spectacular the past couple nights.

At camp, it’s quite calm.  It gets dark around 6 PM and dinner is usually at 7.  We’re in bed by 8:30 to 9 PM.  I like having Fiona as a tentmate.  We pass time gossiping about boys or talking about movies.

Description of later on that night…

Later on that night, we could see a flash of lightning through our tents and heard the water start to fall from the sky.  We were camped at summit and it was close to the clouds.  I started to count the seconds between the flash of lightning and thunder – about 2 to 3 seconds.  More amazing was that the porters, once the rain started, jumped up and were busy at work to use the walking poles to dig ‘trenches’ above our tents so that the water wouldn’t impact our sleep.

Thankfully, the rain passed us by and the next day was clear.  We were blessed with good weather during the trip.

THURSDAY, 28 MAY 2009

Train Ride Back to Cusco

This trip has been amazing.  We took it slowly yesterday.  After a great lunch, we made our way for a couple hours till we reached the Sungate.  From hear, we were able to see Machu Picchu in the distance.

My initial reaction to see Machu PIcchu was:  That’s it?  I even had to ask a fellow groupmate if it was it.  From afar, it looked like any other ruin that we’d seen along the way.

As we made our way towards the site, I came to appreciate the beauty of the ruins.  We got the ‘classic’ photo shot of the site once close enough.  It was late by that time, so we had to hurry down the hill to the bus.  It took us to Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu.

The plan was to head to the Hot Springs, then have dinner.  We had been dreaming of the Hot Springs since Day 1.  More importantly, we were dreaming of the hot showers that were at the Hot Springs.

It was surprising – most people just used the outdoor shower.  Fiona, 2 others and I were the only that jumped into the Hot Springs.  Although the water was brown, the hot water soothed our aching tired muscles.  I didn’t care about the ‘dirty’ water – I was filthy myself after having hiked for 4 days straight.  We ordered Pina Coladas and enjoyed our time in the water.

After, we had a spectacularly hot shower (outdoors).  I washed my hair three times and soaped up well.  I was entirely relaxed.

After the Hot Springs and a late dinner, we stumbled our way through the dark to camp.  I was so exhausted that I passed out immediately.  Sleep was divine.

Today, I had trouble rising at 5:30 AM.  We got to Machu PIcchu by 7 AM.  The site was practically empty, a rare event.  This was due to a train strike from the day before, meaning that few people had reached Aguas Calientes.  We were blessed with great pictures.  The first thing we focused on was getting tickets to climb Wanaypicchu, the huge mountain facing Machu Picchu.  The trail is restricted to 400 people, so a bunch of us wanted the reassurance of having a spot for later on during the day.

Cezar, our guide, gave a great tour of Machu PIcchu.  He took us around to explain the different sections of Machu Picchu.  When Hiram Bingham first arrived at Machu Picchu, it was apparently covered entirely by vegetaion.  To clear it, he set fire to the place.

There is a lot of speculation of the use and purpose of Machu Picchu and I can’t say that I really know.  However, I did have a great time walking around the ruins and getting shots of the place.

Around 10:30 AM, we started the climb up Wanaypicchu.  A group of 6 of us had decided to take on the challenge, despite having spent the past four days trekking.  It was very challenging – very steep and a lot of steps.  There were areas where we had cables along the walls to assist us.  The view was worth it.  At the top were rocks where we got great photos and rested.  It was well worth the climb.

After a difficult descent, we took the bus down to Aguas Calientes.  We got food and enjoyed happy hour, allowing our poor tired bodies rest for a while. 

FRIDAY, 22 MAY 2009

Arrival in Peru

 It's 3:30 AM and I'm currently in the Lima airport, awaiting my transfer flight to Cusco at 5:30 AM.  I've been here since midnight.

 I arrived safely in Lima.  My luggage, however, did not.  It's the FIRST time during my Around the World Trip that I've checked luggage and go figure -- it doesn't get here.

My flight from SFO to LAX was delayed for over 30 minutes since the pilot was 'still driving in from Vacaville.'  What the fuck.  We were all onboard and the pilot wasn't even there?  Then we arrived in LAX and couldn't get a gate to unload at for another 30 minutes.  I sprinted from Terminal 7 to the International Terminal, making it to the check in counter 20 minutes after the boarding time.

After a pleasant flight when numerous movie options and a good sleep, I arrived in Lima.  As I waited for my luggage, I saw a lady who'd been running with me in LAX to catch the plane.  We joined up and our fears were realized -- our luggage did not make it on the plane.  She acted as my translator, talking to the airline workers and explaining our situation.

The good thing is, the luggage is supposedly coming on tomorrow's flight and will be delivered to my hostel.  However, if it doesn't get there tomorrow, I'm shit out of luck cuz my Inca Trail hike will be starting the next early morning, and I'll have no clothes and no hiking boots.  That would definitely suck.

Until then, I'm just focusing on getting to Cusco.  It's funny to sit at the Starbucks on my laptop, watching as people with masks are walking around.  Of all the countries I've been to, the scare of the Swine Flu seems the worst here.  I see more people with masks here than anywhere else.

Anyways, that's all for now.  I'll be working hard to update the website soon.